I have quite a bit of experience running an Ultimaker 2 and various other printers, so I step into this machine with some tricks already learned. If you're first starting this is the best bang you can get if you don't mind screwing in a total of 4-6 bolts and plunging in 4-5 plugs. If you can't handle that have someone else print parts for you. -First DON'T use the CURA program they give to you on the SD card. As of writing this (4/28/16) it is an old version of CURA. GO to CURA's website and download their newest version. You're prints will not work without a brim on this machine and you only have that option on the new version of CURA. There are other programs out there that are free and some that are better but, cost money but this one is fine for me for now. -Once you open CURA in the top right hand corner it asks what type of printer you will select the Prusa i3. Material.. you should know what material you have. -ALWAYS have BRIM selected!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! and "Support"This machine is trick with getting the parts to stick if you don't have a couple of factors in play. Obviously making sure your print bed is level with the piece of paper trick. When the build plate heats up thermal expansion of the parts will change this tolerance so keep that in mind as well. Learning which way to screw the adjustment screws is half the batter but, you will get it. -If you are new to CURA watch a tutoria cause you can rotate the part and change the "Fill" and quality settings for faster prints times. -Profile "Ulti" vs. "Low Quality"... You will almost not notice the difference in part resolution with this. Keep it always in Low. It will save massive amounts of time. -The "Infill" should be "Light" or "Dense". You parts will not be stronger if they're "Solid" and his take massive time and material. "Hollow" I suggest against unless you want a quit print for prototyping only. -Sense the machine or program doesn't have auto adjustment temp settings while printing for (PLA)you will need to manually change the temperatures. The program automatically selects temps I don't agree with or rather the material or print bed don't agree with. You will want to make sure the first layer or 2 that the print "Bed Temp" is at 90'C and up the temperature of the filament "Temp. 1" to 225'C. You can change this once you have chosen your "Print File" you will go back to the menu scroll down to select "Extruder" You will find "Bed Temp. and extruder "Temp. 1". Once the first layer or second layer are done shut the Bed Temp completely off. Then lower your extruder "Temp. 1" back down to about 210'C. If you're using Brim and your part is warping your bed is not close enough to the extruder tip. You can tighten the skrews while its printing an notice the difference. I litterally saved a print while typing this adjusting the screws. The options I suggested above will be your key to getting this machine to work. It is quite slower than other machines like the Ultimaker 2 but, that machine is more than 5X the cost of this one and to be honestly the quality is almost identical. I HIGHLY suggest buying something like this that's almost ready out of the box rather than a 100 less one of eBay that is a fully assembled job.